I like eggs. A lot. So I’m always working to improve my egg-making. A while back I blogged about my herbed eggs and greens, where I showed you my high-heat, quick-scramble technique.
Since then, I have changed how I scramble eggs, thanks to Malachi McCormick’s Irish Country Cooking, a wonderful cookbook with traditional and modern Irish recipes and, like all good things Irish, full of history and stories and proverbs.
His recipe is very simple, calling for eggs, water (1 tablespoon for each egg), butter (Kerrygold, no doubt), and a pinch of salt.
Perfect scramble secrets
The first secret to scrambled eggs, he says, is the water. He says, “Because water is added… the eggs are being fried and steamed at the same time.” He goes on to blow the lid off the standard American scrambled egg: “[Y]ou must never use milk: it thickens the taste and texture.”
The second secret is to cook them slowly, over low heat, and to push the cooked bits into the center of the pan, so the uncooked portion will flow to the outside to be cooked. Also, stop cooking the eggs just before they are done: They will finish cooking on their own, and you do not want them overdone. A little runny is good.
A perfect scramble example
This morning I made some with homemade chicken broth, caçoula (pork in lard, wine, and spices) from Fall River, and my mom’s homemade kimchee (fermented cabbage, garlic, ginger, and pepper). Is this what they call fusion cuisine?
See how I pile up the cooked bits in the middle to allow the rest to cook:
The final reduction:
The perfect scramble!
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